Messages

1

Gallery Picture Submission / Re: A new addition to the family

« on: September 30, 2012, 12:51:48 PM »

Can u post some pic on how u set up the top factor fender, like if u directly set up it to the support or use the rebar, cause im managing on my own atm and needed some idea on how to do so. thx in advnace

Sorry but I am not sure exactly what you want to know.

2

Gallery Picture Submission / Re: Some updates of my A4....

« on: June 16, 2009, 04:44:23 PM »

change your blue airfilter, I had the same one and once I put another better made one (generic) the car ran alot better, this blue e-bay filter seemed to be more restrictive.

3

Questions About Writeups / Re: B5 Brakes Upgrade

« on: June 16, 2009, 04:42:23 PM »

If you do buy a set of B5 S4 front calipers make sure all the parts are there, these are

-calipers
-hard hydrolic line on the caliper
-retention bracket that holds the hardline and the flex line etc
-dust caps on the floater pins, there should be 2 on each caliper

otherwise you may have issues getting someof the parts, ask me how I know....

4

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / Re: Coolant leak . Help

« on: June 16, 2009, 04:38:07 PM »

if the leak is coming from what is circled in red, then it is the bleeder for the collant system, you should go to the dealer and get a new screw which will come with a new scealing washer, make sure to check yours first since there are 2 versions one plastic and one metal (screw). Only replace this when the engine is cold,otherwise it will be pressurized and you will burn yourself.

5

Questions About Writeups / Re: N75...

« on: June 02, 2009, 02:38:45 PM »

why do you want to replace the n75, most are running the n75 stock on may different set ups and have no issues, a defective or improper n75 (J, H, Race, etc) will throw the car into limp mode (in general), most running hi power mods are going to electronic boost controllers or manual boost controllers, you can also add a manual boost control and ease some of the boost spike but opinions differ. Many in the VW scene wil go for the N75J and acheive a smoother boost and at times an extra psi of boost, but in the audis it is less common (as far as I know). If you ever want to bypass it with a EBC or  MBC you will need to keep it pluged in not to throw a code.

6

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / Re: Anyone know how this is possible...odd brake wear?

« on: May 12, 2009, 12:26:17 PM »

often one side will wear out more than the other, on the oem B6 A4 calipers it is usually due to the fact that the pads get stuck in the holders and the caliper does not slide as well as when they are first installed. In your case you may either have a stuck piston or you may need to look at the floating pins on the caliper to make sure the whole thing is sliding the way it should. Basically the caliper does not float back to the starting point and the outer pads constantly wear, or the opposit when you brake the outer pads force against the rotor more than the inner ones, especially since you have multi piston set up on the S4 B5 calipers it could be more sensitive than the B6 A4 due to the nature of the mechanisme.

7

Questions About Writeups / Re: Stealth Taillights

« on: April 04, 2009, 08:03:28 AM »

the red ring is there to allow you to manually work the solenoid that usually locks the fuel door, if the solenoid goes dead for any reason and you need gas you are screwed, many of the audis have it, the TT and A4 are the ones I have seen this on myself. And if for any reason the entire central locking system were to fail, you can unlock the drivers door, and the trunk with a key, but the only thing left to unlock would be the fuel door, so voila! red thingy.

8

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / Re: audi wheels?

« on: March 28, 2009, 08:18:10 AM »

6$ is cheap, some platinum and irridiums can cost up to 10-15$ each, 60$+ for 4 plugs, now that is pricey!

9

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / Re: update question ?!

« on: March 26, 2009, 04:09:54 PM »

it is a really nice grill but a little pricey, I think most sell it around 300$+

10

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / Re: im gettin a left rear light and right rear light message??

« on: March 26, 2009, 04:08:54 PM »

looks good, let us know how it works out.

11

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / Re: headlights/fog lights

« on: March 26, 2009, 04:07:30 PM »

before you raise the idle have the dealer look at it, if you raise idle you will always be running at a higher idle and the car should be able to handle the xtra strain of an accessory, if you roll up the windows and hold the switch after they close you can feel a load on the car, but regular lights etc should not make any real diff.

12

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / FS KONI coilovers

« on: March 25, 2009, 10:44:31 AM »

Hi Guys! I figure I would put these up for anyone in the Montreal or surrounding area. They are off my wife's B6 quattro, I bought the car with the KONIs on them but she did not like it that low, so in went my old sport suspention. They are in great shape and I would like about 700$ but I am open to offers, I would prefer to sell locally since shipping would be too much$$.

13

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / Re: headlights/fog lights

« on: March 25, 2009, 10:36:07 AM »

that seems strange, I would say return it to the dealer so they can fix whatever they may have disrupted, what warranty work did they do? You may have a bad battery, or alternator, but we would need more details.

14

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / Re: POSSESSED DRIVER SIDE WINDOW :( :( HELP

« on: March 25, 2009, 10:32:52 AM »

I am going from memeory, but there is also a "load" sensor on the window to stop it and run it back down if it forces too hard, this is a safety in case fingers get caught in the window when rolling up. your window may be out of wack and forcing at the top and therefore running back down on safety. If you do it bit by bit and you can close it all the way up, and if the up and down work then the wires should be OK.

I know on some models there is a protochol to adjust this, but I am not at home so sorry no info. if you need more or nobody knows it off hand, PM me and I will dig around my pc at home.

15

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / Re: im gettin a left rear light and right rear light message??

« on: March 25, 2009, 10:28:16 AM »

maybe someone can chime in on the resistor specs, but I would probably connecti it into the + wire going to the LED hook up, if you can connect it on the side of the tail light harness not the car side, this way if you change back to the oem lights you will not have any issues.

16

Gallery Picture Submission / Re: NEW WHEELS FOR SUMMER :) ALMOST READY !

« on: March 24, 2009, 04:00:41 PM »

they look great, damn now I need to rethink my wheel situation!! LOL.

17

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / Re: HID's

« on: March 24, 2009, 03:51:29 PM »

I think the oems are in the 4300K range.

18

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / Re: Waterfest 09

« on: March 24, 2009, 03:43:52 PM »

I haven't gone, but I have heard it rocks, might be worth it, I am considering it.

19

Additional Questions - Non Writeup Specific / Re: im gettin a left rear light and right rear light message??

« on: March 24, 2009, 03:42:46 PM »

which tails do you have, if they are LED they may be working but not giving the right resistance to the car and it thinks they are burnt. if they are leds then you may need to add a resistor to simulate the right resistance.

If they are not tails then remove one and see if the oem harness plug is inline with the aftermarket light harness, I mean follow the oem wires to each light bulb to make sure all the wires were used in the new light assembly. Some Chine made lights may just not use all the wires or jump one or something like that.


let us know what you find.

20

Questions About Writeups / Re: Please Help!

« on: March 04, 2009, 02:07:42 PM »

I am not sure exaclty what you mean, but that is the SAI system intake pipe, it sucks air from the air box into the electric pump and from there it pushes air into the engine during cold start up. unless you mean the electric pump is still running (strange tho), the fact of the plastic pipe popping off would not drain your battery, you could get a new pipe or just try using some tape or zip tie to make it stay on.

If the electric motor is running do you have a cel? it could be a short in the motor a defective relay etc.

we would need more info.